Issue 36 2023 - Journal - Page 82
Beyond the Little Black Dress
A new exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland will deconstruct the little black
dress, examining the radical power of the colour black in fashion. From design classics to
cutting-edge catwalk creations, Beyond the Little Black Dress brought together more than
60 striking looks from collections and designers around the world.
The colour black can be interpreted in many subtle and
often contradictory ways. The exhibition will explore how
its complexities have made the little black dress simultaneously expressive of piety and perversion, respect and
rebellion; from the well-mannered cocktail attire of
the early 20th century to the leather and latex worn by
members of punk and fetish subcultures.
Beyond the Little Black Dress opened with a simple, short
black dress designed by Coco Chanel in 1926. Considered
radically modern, it disregarded convention entirely in
both the stark design and sombre shade, that had traditionally been associated with mourning. At the time it was
hailed by US Vogue as “the frock that all the world will
wear”. The ‘little black dress’ became a wardrobe staple,
a symbol of femininity and a byword for chic, with each
new silhouette capturing the spirit of its time.
The little black dress remains a blank canvas for broader
political and cultural shifts. It can challenge social norms
around race, gender and sexuality to reflect evolving
ideals of beauty and identity, proving its infinite capacity
for reinvention.
simple shift dress which helped democratise women’s fashion
to a bold political statement, it has moved through various
iterations which reflect changing ideals of beauty and body
image. Displaying classic couture, avant-garde pieces and
garments that make a political statement, this exhibition will
explore its enduring success, and ask why, in the fickle and
fast-paced fashion world, the little black dress has achieved that
rare status of being truly above the fray.”
Sam Pattman, Philanthropy Manager at Baillie Gifford
Investment Managers said: “We are delighted that our
successful relationship with National Museums Scotland
continues with our support for Beyond the Little Black Dress.
This exciting exhibition takes a fresh look at a timeless classic,
examining how it has remained in style for nearly a century
and displaying a dazzling selection of garments from those worn
by royalty to truly avant-garde creations at the cutting edge of
the fashion industry.”
Visitors to Beyond the Little Black Dress, which was
sponsored by Baillie Gifford Investment Managers, discovered a century of fashion in a series of themed, immersive displays. Iconic early pieces by Yves Saint Laurent,
Dior and Jean Muir will be juxtaposed with recent looks
by ground-breaking contemporary designers and brands
like Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha and Off-White.
Areas of the exhibition were dedicated to highlighting
Black British designers whose work explores both
Blackness in terms of identity, and the role the colour
black plays in crafting a futuristic, sci-fi aesthetic.
Elsewhere, the exhibition considers how perceptions of
the colour black differ in a global context, as well as how
the intervention of smart technologies are establishing a
blueprint for a more sustainable future.
Georgina Ripley, Principal Curator, Modern and
Contemporary Design at National Museums Scotland,
said: “Few garments are as iconic as the little black dress,
which has often been held up by the fashion industry as the
one piece every woman should have in her wardrobe. It has
evolved dramatically in the century since its creation. From a
National Museums Scotland’s internationally significant
Opposite, ‘Woman's evening dress. French, c. 1929. Image © National Museums Scotland