KCR Spring 2024 Magazine FINAL v2 Lower res - Flipbook - Page 30
Faber
Pravaas
It9s not the 昀rst thing you9d think of when visiting a brand spanking
new restaurant, but I9ve been pondering toilet inequality - yes, you read
that right - since a recent visit to Wembley Stadium, where it dawned
on that this modern (we9re talking 2007) - venue has far fewer women9s
bathrooms than men9s.
I absolutely love Bombay and if there9s one thing in London that brings
back memories of the fair city, its good Indian food and its not unlike
me to go o昀 on a tangent extolling the virtues of this wonderful metropolis perched on the east coast of the great Arabian Sea. I grew up there
and and got sucked into this seductive theatre of life that makes the city
tick and thrive despite the inevitable bumps that await us all. Pravaas
in South Kensington is the source of this nostalgia today 3 harking
back to those seemingly hypnagogic sights and smells that 昀lled my
happy-yet-blurry childhood. Run by fellow Bombayites, Chef Shilpa
Dandekar and her husband Faheem Vanoo, this little wonder on Glendower Place is a delight waiting to be discovered by locals, Londoners
and tourists alike.
So women don9t really attend football games, nor concerts. News to me.
In the same way, has anyone ever noticed that in pubs and restaurants,
the women9s toilets almost always involve a 昀ight of stairs? There9s
something 昀shy about all of it - but not, thank goodness, at
Hammersmith9s new seafood restaurant Faber, where the female toilets
are on the same level as the pared-back luxury of its dining setting:
think parquet 昀oors and granite tabletops, softened by blues in the
upholstery of comfortable seating. The setting subtly evokes the British
coastline, without waving a net or lobster pot under your nose.
Combining many decades of hospitality experience between them,
Matt Ward and Anthony Pender spent lockdown biking around East
London, delivering seafood, shell昀sh and cocktails to residents yearning
for a quality night out, even while forced to stay in. They9re now joined
by executive chef Ollie Bass - and, while the happy coincidence of his
surname is not lost on me, his credentials, which include Quo Vadis, are
also impeccable. They9re also joined by some of the best service sta昀 I9ve
ever encountered: knowledgeable, humorous and genuinely friendly.
First impressions are everything, but the food still manages to exceed
any expectations set by these. Pre-opening, the team researched
suppliers to source their star ingredients from those combining quality
with sustainability, so the menu is subject to seasonality - and yet, while
昀sh-focussed, it still features some meat - slow roasted pork belly, for
instance. The drinks menu is also 昀rmly grounded in the best of British,
so we start with a bottle of West Sussex bubbles accompanied by Essex
Rock Oysters. It9s a 昀ttingly indulgent start to a leisurely Sunday lunch;
perhaps all the more leisurely because we don9t have a Lyric or Apollo
event to catch - although what a great spot in which to kick o昀 such
an outing. In our case, the afternoon is, quite literally, our oyster. Our
slurpable platter is followed by St Austell mussels, doused deliciously
in a sauce of white wine, shallots and cream, with sourdough to mop it
all up. Happily, the menu is clearly marked with its 8gluten free9 choices,
and the sta昀 are happy to provide extra guidance, if needed.
Perhaps one of the most remarkable things about Faber is that it9s set in
such an unlovely part of London - all 昀yovers, interchanges and
thoroughfares - yet you feel miles away from this from the moment you
walk in the door, and completely transported by the time you9ve taken
your 昀rst mouthful of food.
They say that Cornish people get fed up with summer9s in昀ux of
Londoners. Thanks to Faber, you can have Cornwall right here in
London, all year round.
Faber
206 Hammersmith Road,
London, W6 7DH
faberrestaurants.co.uk
Sarah Rodrigues
It is a dainty little establishment with a big heart - 30-cover establishment which will soon have patrons lining up for those coveted seats. It
is a ride into a sea of 昀avours and creations that are always authentic yet
innovative and modern. Both Faheem and Shilpa begun their careers
at the prestigious Taj Group of Hotels in India. Shilpa built up on that
illustrious start and earned her reputation as one of London9s leading
female chefs. Her wealth of experience spans working with Chef Sriram
Aylur at Michelin-starred Quilon 3 one of my personal favourites and a
trailblazing establishement - and also the renowned Raymond Blanc.
As with most Indian chefs, the inspiration and repertoire is pan-subcontinental but there is also a Maharasthrian edge to it (Note: Bombay
is part of the Indian State of Maharsthra). The tasting menu is the ideal
way to get a good idea of the diverse menu but in my case, I, most intuitively and sensibly trusted Faheem to suggest the best options. There is
an impressive set of prestarters including Taste of Mumbai, a handy selection of dahi sev puri, pani poori, and colcannon ragda pattice 3 three
quintessential street foods that light up the senses. Other stars include
Richado Masala Fried Squid 3 a dish which draws inspiration from Malabar and Goan cuisines and Lamb Galouti Kebab plates that really does
melt in your mouth. The variety of mains is astounding with a whole
load of grilled meats from the Tandoori Oven section that in itself would
need a few dinner sessions to get through. For game lovers there is Venison Dalcha and pan-fried Barberry Duck Roast. Unsurprisingly, it9s the
Maharasthrian dishes that take my fancy such as Malvani Chicken and
Lamb Sukhe, the latter given a magni昀cently polished 昀nish by Shilpa
for something which is rural, everyday food. The standout dish for me
and for a lot of the regularly-building regular clientele is Lasooni Palak.
As a rule, you should NOT leave the establishment without trying this
brilliant dish unless you can9t stand garlic or spinach or simply can9t digest the idea that a vegetarian dish can take centre spot. Pravaas9 Prawn
Balchao is a classic Goan dish that delivers big and the Red Snapper
and Palourde Moillee brings a welcome taste of Kerala to the table. All
of these culinary jewels complemented with some classic Dal Makhani,
choice of naan from the clay oven and Steamed Rice - the latter over
Pulao because there are enough 昀avours happening already. Desserts
add their own sparkle with Gulab Jamun & Red Currants Frangipan a
particularly interesting one. It is baked with almond cream and vanilla
ice cream whilst Jackfruit Crème Brulé with jalebi and raspberry caviar
also delivers spectacularly. Pravaas in Marathi and Hindi means travel
to a foreign country for a meaningful stay. I implore you all to travel to
Glendower Place to witness the magic of Pravaas. It will all make sense.
Pravaas 3 Glendower Pl, South Kensington, London SW7 3DU 020 3161
7641 www.pravaas.com. By Sid Raghava.