KCR XMAS WINTER FINAL print adjusted Dec 28. lower res - Flipbook - Page 32
Kanishka
Benaras
The Emperor9s New Chef
Stronger than Ever at 20
Atul Kochhar9s restaurants are delightful homages to quality Indian fare.
Thankfully, they are now liberally sprinkled all across Greater London
stretching all the way to Marlow. Vaasu in the latter town is an amazing
ode to relaxed, luxurious dining (review online and in print soon) and
closer to home, Kanishka is an absolute cracker.
Named after the holiest city in India, Benaras (or Varanasi as the city is
popularly known) remains a stellar destination in terms of
subcontinental cuisine. It was a revelation when it erupted onto what
was then a nascent scene in 2003. Vineet Bhatia9s Zaika had just won
its 昀rst Michelin star 3 the 昀rst Indian restaurant to do so 3 and Atul
Kochhar would follow soon with his own at Tamarind. It was a
gamechanger, and 昀rmly signalled the start of a glorious chapter, not
just for Indian fare within the capital, but also non-European-hi-level
cuisine in general. The esteemed restaurant is now proudly celebrating
its 20th year in the business with an anniversary menu that is more than
representative of its immaculate credentials. Under the guidance of its
storied head chef Sameer Taneja, Benaras is still delivering the luscious
goodness that nourished and energised our senses back in the early
noughties.
Conveniently located between Mayfair and Oxford Circus smack in the
middle of the hallowed food avenue that is Maddox Street, Kanishka9s
unassuming-yet-charming facade leads into an L-shaped bar which
looks as inviting as the meticulously arranged tables and
immaculately upholstered seats within the main dining room. The
ambience is relaxed as much as its invigorating and a subtle aroma
tantalises the senses. The sta昀 are keen to impress and there are several
masterfully curated menus on o昀er to make it easier for unsure patrons
looking for advice and suggestions.
I was particularly looking forward to this visit because Kanishka has had
a new executive leader in Ashok Kumar 3 National Chef of the Year
昀nalist - who used to assist Atul at Indian Essence and also held the
chief role at Benares. With those credentials, I was expecting a lot and
true to expectations, Ashok and the team at Kanishka did not
disappoint.
When you go to one of Atul9s restaurants and particularly when there
is a new executive chef at helm, its best to trust them to predicate their
passion and ability. That9s exactly what I did by going for the Kanishka
tasting menu.
The starter of Nashta comes paired with a wonderfully 昀zzy pairing of
Kochhar9s own Blanc de Blanc. The Dahi Puri is followed by Nadru Ki
Chaat, which is lotus stem kebabs and crisps served with sweet yoghurt
and tamarind chutney. The Crab Bonda is the standout dish for me 3
Cromer crab and grilled corn fritter perfectly complemented by apple
salad, kimchi and chilli-tamarind chutney. This is also the part of the
meal where Kochhar9s culinary genius comes into play. I am not the
biggest fan of Indian wines and a Mango wine from Rhythm Winery
in Maharashtra didn9t yell out to me in the least. However, it paired
magni昀cently with the crunchy bonda. The main of Butter Chicken is
gloriously teamed with black daal, cauli昀ower, bread and rice.
The meal is topped o昀 with perfectly balanced dessert duo of Pistachio
Kul昀 and Chai Crème Brulee 3 the latter paired with The Ned from
Marlborough in New Zealand, one of my favourite sweet wines. The
menu is a triumph. Ashok Kumar, well done! Atul 3 carry on
restauranting!
17-19 Maddox St, London W1S 2QH
www.kanishkarestaurant.co.uk
Sid Raghava
The hallowed space that is the Benaras main eating hall evokes some
of the most cherished of culinary memories formed over my eighteenyear-old love a昀air with this ground-breaking restaurant. I still fondly
remember my 昀rst visit in 2005 and the excitement surrounding the
concept of Michelin-starred Indian food. This 20th anniversary menu is
a celebration of all the innovation, zest, and 昀avour that the restaurant9s
legend has encompassed since those early days. Before I rhapsodise
over the delectable menu, I9d like to do昀 my hat to the wonderful
Prabhat Singh - front of service - who guided us through the
celebratory menu with unbounded vigour and vim, both coming from a
place of genuine passion and enthusiasm. Appropriately, he also hails
from Haridwar in India, a town in the Himalayas steeped in holiness.
The party starts with a bevy of street food delights including Bread
Pakoda 3 humble bread ensconced in a sliver of chickpea batter and
oozing with delectable chutney. It9s a very simple course, a common
morning or tea-time snack but, given the Benaras treatment, magic
transpires. Separately, Pani Puri, a stranger to London shores back
in 2003, is 昀lled with an exquisite mint and coriander chutney which
explodes in your mouth, whilst the 昀sh tikka is John Dory, spiced and
fried to perfection. One of the undisputed stars of the night is King Crab
and Egg Masala, aka Muska Pav 3 a staple dish in the ubiquitous Irani
cafes of erstwhile Bombay. An absolute triumph, it is swiftly followed
by a worthy successor 3 pan fried Halibut and Clam. Immaculate is the
only way to describe the dreamy main of lamb chop, paratha and pulao
rice with dahl and raita, which is followed by the most exotic of palette
cleaners - Chilli Sorbet served in an enormous serrano chilli. The feast
ends with a delicious duo of deserts, the 昀rst of which is a traditional
Malai Kul昀 昀avoured with pistachio and some bright strands of sa昀ron,
plus candied fruit or tutti frutti, while the other is the not so traditional,
yet utterly brilliant, Petit Fours.
The lifestyle and landscape of London - and indeed, the world - has
changed drastically over the last twenty years. Restaurants have come
and gone and only a cherished few have 昀ourished and withstood the
test of time. Benares falls 昀rmly and proudly within the second category. It is still 昀ying the 昀ag high for innovative, authentic, and sumptuous Indian food.
Sid Raghava
12a Berkeley Square, London W1J 6BS, United Kingdom +44 20 7629
8886
www.benaresrestaurant.com