BL16 - Page 53



Ea t
we ll
W ITH S IT W E LL
T
P IN C E R
M OV EM EN T
here is something
so glorious about
lobster that, unless
you’re horribly
spoilt, you tend to remember
the moments when you’ve
gobbled one up. Their appeal
comes from their very being,
of course. Ocean-floor
wandering creepy crawlies,
foolish enough to climb into
the lobster pot, dangerous
unless bound by humans,
quickly dispatched by a knife
plunged into the head, or
worse – boiled alive. Then,
miraculously changing colour
from deep purple to scarlet
and with a tremendous price
tag adding to the wonder.
What can be better than
a whole cooked lobster, sliced
in half with the flesh gleaming?
Chips on the side, maybe a
S H U TT E R S TO C K
Boisdale Life’s food and drinks editor
dreams of a summer in which lobsters
will be looming large on the menu
53
BOISDALELIFE .COM
SUMMER 2019
ISSUE 16
dollop of mayonnaise, most
certainly a large glass of
chilled white wine; Muscadet
perhaps, or something
minerally from Austria.
All you need to do is
shamelessly don a napkin,
grab the tools and get stuck in.
My lobster greatest hits
include a few guzzled with
the chef Mark Hix in
Barbados at Lobster Alive –
a simple place, bare feet on
the sand, where they come
finished under the grill with
butter. Henry Harris cooked
one for me once at Racine,
the fabulous French bistro
he ran in South Kensington.
He added shallots, parsley,
garlic, butter, Pastis and
brandy to the mix and Lord,
were they good. In February
of this year we bought a load
down in Newlyn and ate
them by the sea in Mousehole
with oven chips and buckets
of white wine.
Try one at Boisdale in
a simple linguini or chargilled
whole with garlic, parsley and
chilli butter. Yum! Devour
some as you gobble up this
issue of Boisdale Life’s food
pages, which include the
glorious spectacle of Bill
Knott befuddled on a cricket
pitch, the victim of a dastardly
opposing team who stuffed
him with tea before he had to
bowl, and Mark Palmer
celebrating the 100th birthday
of the Negroni!





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