FL02 PDF (212pp) - Page 154

Technical Rig Design
of around 8-10ins, and I feel that coupled with a heavy lead, I can achieve
a well-sunk hooklink with enough
movement to allow a good hooking
potential. The fact that the carp’s
visual acuity will be seriously
impaired because of the nature of the
feeding environment is a real bonus
to the angler. I do generally prefer a
smaller size of hook purely because
they penetrate very easily and fish
that feed predominantly in silt have
soft mouths, so I like the fact they get
really deep solid hook holds. Larger
hooks need more of a hold to secure
them, and I personally don’t feel they
offer the same efficiency as a smaller
one where soft mouths are an issue.
(Try telling the missus that small ones
are more efficient!). Pattern-wise for
my rig I like a fairly short shank hook
for the job, and I am happy to use
either a beaked or straight pointed
pattern. I have a lot of confidence in
the ESP D7’s and Big T’s as well as
t h e G a m a k a t s u S p e c i a l i s t Wi d e
Gapes, Fox SSBP or some from the
Owner stable. (I have used a large
hook in the pictures purely for ease of
tying for photographic purposes).
For my hooklink materials I generally only want a 15lb breaking strain
maximum, and as long as it is of the
darker end of the colour spectrum I
am not overly obsessive about concealment, although there are a few
that offer an enhanced element in
that department. Most notable is the
Dark Mantis from Kryston, which is
both supple and strong with a flecked
appearance, and this mimics the varied colour of silty particulates very
well. Other excellent dark hooklinks
are the Fox Silty black Coretex, and
the Sufix Black Silt and Stiff Silt, and
these offer excellent concealment
properties when fishing in the gloom
of silt so you have plenty of choice
available. Something that may come
as a surprise and a break from convention is my preference for using
heavy leads between 3-5 oz because I
like them to plug into the bottom,
which in turn offers greater resistance
(Top) The final rig complete with
putty added to the Dark Mantis
section, and with bait tied on with
bait floss, keeping it tight to the hook.
All ready to soak in your chosen liquid
(Right) Three of my favourite liquid
and a more efficient hooking mechanism. I realise a lot of people are concerned with their bait being masked
in silt and opt for the lightest leads
possible, but I am confident enough in
thinking that the bait is worth seeking out and they can sense the subtle
signals it is emitting.
I am happy to utilize a lead clip or
helicopter arrangement, and the only
other must for my silt approach is the
use of as much leadcore as is feasible
to cast. I will favour a minimum of 5ft
of leadcore, but if space allows, and I
don’t have to cast far I have used 8ft
of it in the past with no problems
using an underarm cast out to around
30yds. One tip that I employ when
using leadcore is to utilize its porosity
by soaking it in my favoured boilie
soak to enhance the attraction of the
bait. This is especially useful when
using a single bait or small bag, as it
gives off a massive food signal but
without giving any food value, the
theory being that they will readily
take a small bait offering because of
the lack of it compared to the attraction level. I have utilized this to great
effect when fishing in silt, so give it a
go. I have had comments of utter disbelief from mates seeing it done, but
believe me it works a treat. Simply
coil the leadcore into a container with
your preferred liquid in and cover for a
while so it is completely soaked, then
you are ready to go. Line-wise, a good
sinking line is advantageous and I am
currently using 11lb Snyde, which is
the new fast sinking copolymer from
Kryston, but I have used good old
Daiwa Sensor to great effect, and with
the addition of backleads in any case,
it achieves the same effect but may
just slightly hinder bite registration.
So now you have the elements to construct the rig, and my reasoning for
the choices, so have a look at the pic-


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