FL09June - Page 95

All Things Riggy
he last two parts of All
Things Riggy I’ve
gone into detail on
two popular pop-up
rigs, namely the Chod
and the Withy Pool rig.
This month the rig I’m going to write
about is a bit more hush-hush and not
commonly used on lakes up and
down the country. I've called it the 90
degrees bead rig for the purpose of
this article, as the hook sits at approximately 90 degrees to the extension of
hooklink and a small hard bead is
integral to the makeup of the rig. I first
saw the principle of this rig when a
good friend and work colleague at the
time, Mike Winstone, showed me his
version. I immediately liked the concept of the rig and could see its hooking and anti-ejection advantages. I
did however feel a bit of tinkering was
necessary for it to suit my style of
fishing, and from a confidence point of
view there were one or two changes I
needed to employ for my own peace
of mind. I was angling at the time on
the Mecca that is the Car Park Lake at
Yateley, and the infrequent chances
had to be made the most of, and the
chances of a loss due to inadequate
tackle needed to be eliminated.
Mike's rig consisted of a long shank
hook with a length of fluorocarbon
doubled through the eye and looped
over the hook to hitch it around the
eye of the hook. On the doubled up
section of rig was a ring or small
swivel to which the boom section
was tied, and to prevent the main
hooklink from coming off, a small
4mm hard plastic bead was added
before blobbing the two ends of fluorocarbon with a lighter down onto the
plastic bead and flattening it off to
prevent the bead from moving. This
upright section could be any height
but I think Mike had his at about 2ins.
To attach the bait a large rig ring was
placed on the hook shank before a
hook bead was threaded over the
point and pushed round the bend to
sit above the barb. The boom section,
also made of fluorocarbon in 22lb
breaking strain, was nice and stiff so
it would kick the bait away from the
lead, and a size 8 swivel was tied on
about 7ins or so from the small swivel.
A piece of tungsten putty could be
moulded around the bead to sink the
pop-up to the desired buoyancy.
My main liking for this sort of rig
and its possibilities was that the
hooking potential was great. As with
a W i t h y P o o l r i g, t h e h o o k w a s
shielded under the bait, and the
whole concealment of the rig was
improved as there was no need for
shrink tube to create the right angle,
and I could use a very inconspicuous
hooklink material like fluorocarbon
and still allow the hook section to
spin and finds its target of the bottom
lip. I could also fish the rig tight to the
bottom, so it would not be too obvious to the carp. As I said I was
impressed with the concept, and
could see the rig forming an important part of my rig armoury, but I did
have reservations about certain components and the way it was tied up. I
set about forming my own version,
which I could be confident of casting
out into the Car Park Lake and be
happy I had a better than good
chance of hooking, and more importantly landing, a wise old Car Park
The first part of the rig I was concerned about was the hook – the most
1. Original rig components.
2. The hook and rig material.
3. Step 1 – attaching the hook.
4. Step 2 – add hook ring swivel and
hook bead.


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