FL10 (All 218 pages) - Page 80

All Things Riggy
1. 10mm of exposed braid gives
freedom of movement.
2. My North Lake rig.
3. Lead wire wrap to just sink hook.
4. An updated version of the North
Lake rig.
Firstly, I’m going to look at the hook
size before going into more detail
about various rigs and the materials
chosen to tie said rig. Now most big
carp reside in weedy, snaggy waters,
so the size and strength of the hook is
of paramount importance in the role
of landing the beast once the alarm
signals that pick-up. This is where a
semi-buoyant hookbait has an advantage over a standard bottom bait in
that the weight of the hook, and
indeed the whole rig, can be made
weightless by extra buoyancy. The
exact scenario is to create “an identical weight hookbait + rig = freebie”.
This way suspicion of the bait it radically reduced, and a result more likely.
I touched on the subject of hiding the
hook under the bait a few issues back
when talking about concealment. I
feel, especially in shallow clear water,
that the carp can see and recognise a
hook, and the bigger the hook, the
easier a carp will clock it. This is magnified by a shiny hook that can glint in
sunlight, so the answer is a Tefloncoated hook, as small as I can get
away with. A balanced hookbait can
also sit above the hook if on a short
hair or a 'D' rig. I covered the D-rig
setup in the aforementioned concealment article in Big Carp, so I'll only
briefly cover it later for those who
missed it, but as it’s a very relevant rig
to semi-buoyant baits and has proved
devastating for me, I apologise in
advance for going over old ground for
those who read the previous piece.
Where a large hook is necessary, I
therefore choose the tight to the hook
method, and the first rig I’m going to
look at is one I used to good success
ten years ago back on the North Lake
at Yateley. After a good season using
pop-ups on a Withy Pool rig in ‘98 on
the Copse Lake, I reluctantly changed,
as Bazil was always caught on bottom baits, and I wasn't brave enough
to go against the grain. Also Bazil,
when hungry, would trough boilies, so
I was planning on using fair quantities of boilie in a tight spot so the carp
would be hoovering boilies up instead
of swimming and dipping down, so I
wanted my hookbait in amongst it.
And thirdly, some of the spots on the
North were tiny silty spots in amongst
weed, so I wanted some flexibility in
the hooklink so it would settle flat if
the lead should plug into the silt, and
my then Amnesia Withy Pool rig was
much better suited to a hard gravel
Coated braids had just hit the market at this time, so a spool of 25lb
green Snakebite was purchased, and
after a bit of playing about I decided
on where I needed movement along
the rig, and where I wanted stiffer
properties. I was using 20mm boilies,
so if I set it up right I could hide a
large strong hook under the bait, a
size 5, or sometimes 4 wide gaped
Raptor T-6. The swimmer rig had
proved a successful setup back in the
90’s, and although normally used with
a pop-up I felt the hook would hang at
the right angle under the bait, and
with the large wide gaped hook acting like a grabbing claw.
So firstly I would tie a tiny loop in
the coated Snakebite, and immediately under the knot break the coating
with my fingernails so the loop could
pivot once tied. The next job was to


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