FL11 All pages - Page 145

All Things Riggy
dom to use just what I need. Obviously I have preferences, as will you,
but if a different material will suit the
circumstances better, then this surely
is the answer. Although in varying
degrees all hooklinks fall into three
main categories – supple, semi-stiff
and stiff. I’m going to look at all three
in turn, outlining when I’d use them,
and identifying some of the best ones
I’ve used.
Now it’s no secret that carp learn
1. Covering all possibilities.
2. Favoured braids.
3. Car Park Lake braid rig.
4. The new sinkers, great for pinning
the link down.
by association, so as far as hooklink
choice is concerned then it’s well
worth using a different type of material to fool the carp, as the rig will
behave much differently when tied to
a stiff material than it will to a soft
braid. Do your homework and find out
what sort of hooklink has been used
to exhaustion the last year or so. This
is a probably why braids were so
hugely successful when they filtered
onto the market, as previously they'd
only ever been caught on stiffer nylon
hooklinks. Braid, being soft and supple, would help the hookbait act more
naturally, and gave the fish something
completely new to deal with, hence
catching thousands of carp.
Being flexible, braids suit most rigs
where you wish the hookbait to act
naturally, and so are especially good
for bottom bait fishing where you
want the hookbait to mimic a free
bait. I mostly use braid when margin
fishing, as I most likely would be
using a small bait approach with pellets, and as I can place my bait accurately I therefore eliminate the
chances of the braid tangling. Braid
being so soft, this is a chance I don't
like to take when casting out into the
pond. If casting braid, then I find it
less likely to tangle if you add some
weight to the hookbait, so as the
hooklink doesn't fly too close to the
leadcore/tubing. By 'weight' I mean
by adding a stringer or a PVA stick, or
in fact a large heavy hookbait. My


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