FL13 - Page 109

Bottom Bait Rigs
ple of inches from the hook to help
not only flip the hook positively but
keep it on the floor of the mouth, I
only need to add a small amount of
tungsten putty. This gives enough
weight with the rig swivel and will
not slip up the rig with it moulded on
the micro swivel. I make sure I leave
the eye at the fluorocarbon end free of
putty so I retain movement, whereas
the soft braid gives me the flexible
movement at the hook side.
Because I have the stiff boom section of fluorocarbon, and using an
18mm bottom bait, I avoid tangles
that the straight braid rig can cause. A
one or two-bait stringer or tiny bag of
pellets or boilie crumb nicked over
the hook can also be added for peace
of mind, or when extra attraction is
required. A good tip for winter is to
load it up with a good quality dip or
bulk liquid for maximum attraction,
but with very little feed around the
Tying the braid section very short
can be slightly fiddly, as I prefer the
security of a grinner knot, and I usually only need to replace the braided
hook section for a new rig. As soon as
the hookpoint shows signs of not
being clingy super-sharp, I simply cut
off the braid at the micro swivel, and
by not shrinking down the tubing
until after the rig’s tied, I can push it
up onto the shank, leaving me a vital
centimeter extra to pull the knot
down onto before sliding the bedded
down knot tight to the micro swivel. I
then can simply position the shrink
tube back over the eye to the desired
position before shrinking it and reapplying the putty over the micro swivel
– job done.
The other type of bottom bait rigs
with which I’ve had good success on
is stiff rigs. It wasn’t until I returned to
Yateley back in 1997 that I saw the
benefits of using a really stiff hooklink
material as opposed to the supple
braids that had served me well for
most of the previous decade. The
Yateley carp were, and still are, some
of the most pressured carp in the
land, and had become accustomed to
dealing with soft braided hooklinks.
Of course these act more naturally, so
are sucked in easily, but therefore
they are also easier to spit out as the
hook follows the bait that’s being
blown out the middle of those Yateley
carp’s large mouths. A much stiffer
material, such as Amnesia, which I
used back then, or these days fluorocarbon, would be my choice, as they
are much harder to eject.
What with the Yateley carp mainly
feeding on hard gravel spots, a stiff
hooklink would always fall out
straight, thus the bait would be the
(Top left) Before casting nick the hook
in to make it streamlined.
(Top right) Soft hair/D-rig/KD style.
(Above) Tie a knot in the hair for the
second bait to grip.
(Left) The stringer and PVA stick will
help to stop tangles.


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