FL13 - Page 110



Bottom Bait Rigs
full length of the rig away from the
lead so as soon as the carp picked up
the bait the lead would come into
play, not allowing these cagey feeders
any time or space for them to eject
the hookbait. With a stiff rig, because
it’s too stiff to double over, the hook
will always be sent to the edge of the
carp’s mouth if it is attempting to
eject the hookbait. This is why you
will usually hook the carp in the sides
of the mouth as opposed to the bottom lip where a supple rig’s hook will
normally hook up on. Because of this
fact sometimes you can get some
dodgy hookholds, and I find more
losses can occur with a stiff rig than a
combi or straight supple rig.
In fact one of the strangest
hookholds I’ve had with a stiff rig was
the capture of my biggest Match Lake
carp. Fishing over a bed of 80 18mm
boilies, my Amnesia stiff rig was
picked up just a few hours after my
arrival in the ‘48s’ swim. After a good
scrap I had a large Yateley mirror
secure in my net and on examining I
excitedly realised Drop Scale had
been unable to deal with the stiffness
of the hooklink material, as the hook
was buried in the top lip! At 34lb 9oz,
it was just a few ounces short of a
lake record at the time, and certainly
was proof that a stiff rig can prove
very difficult for a carp to eject. With
this sort of rig I find a wide gape hook
the best bet, as with the lack of flexibility that a softer material would
give, a larger wide gape has more
chance of nicking some flesh.
Although the hooklink is not supple, I do usually, and did so in the
Match Lake days, fish a supple hair.
This can be tied to the eye before covering with shrink tube. Alternatively
movement for the bait can be created
by use of a D-rig on the back of the
hook. For this to work well an outturned eyed hook will need to be
used, and back then a Drennan Continental boilie hook was used, whereas
today a Korda Choddy, both in a size
6, would fit the bait.
Something that I’ve not used much
with this rig would be a stiff hair. This
arrangement I feel would be harder
for the carp to eject, but again the
danger could be a poor hookhold. By
simply tying a standard knotless knot,
the hair would extend in the same
line as the shank. To force a more
aggressive angle between the stiff
hair and the hook it is far better to tie
it KD rig style when you are performing the knotless knot. The pattern and
size of the hook will dictate the
amount of turns before and after the
(Top left) Loop the stringer on – no
knots, no blobs.
(Top right) A stick not only prevents
the hook tangling, but offers extra
attraction.
(Left) A high oil potent stick mix plus
(Right top) Instant crumb.
110 FREE LINE
hair exits, but this will automatically
push the hook much closer to the
extremity of the mouth, even when
the bait is in the centre of the mouth.
A hair length of at least an inch plus
the size of the bait will give good separation, and coupled with the stiff
hooklink will be something completely different for the carp to deal
with.
Talking of awkward setups for carp
to eject brings me to the use of double
baits. A double bait, be it two bottom
baits or one bottom bait plus a pop-up
to make a snowman rig, the laws of
physics dictate it will be significantly
less streamlined than a single bait,
and thus cause the carp more problems when trying to spit it out without the hook catching hold. A double
bait, and come to think of it, a long
barrel-shaped bait as well, being
irregular in shape, will twist and turn
once inside the mouth, and as long as
your hair is not too short and
restricted it should find its target of
catching in the carp’s mouth.
To make the rig even more gangly
you can leave some separation

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