FREE-LINE 01.pdf - Page 88



Exclusive Technical Rig Design
(Below left) Add two Thinking
Angler’s beads and Fox Teflon Pear
ring to the hook so it looks like this.
(Middle left) Take 12in of the booklink
and strip back 4in of the coating and
form an overhand loop near the
coating.
(Bottom left) Form another loop about
10mm long and pass the tag end back
through the original loop.
(Top right) Pass the tag end round the
hooklink four times.
(Middle right) Then pass the tag end
back through the original loop and
lubricate the whole knot with saliva.
(Bottom right) Take a Fox tension bar
or similar and pull the knot tight with
a slow and even motion.
88 FREE LINE
that of a safe lead setup, and by that I
mean one that will freely eject the
lead upon a take. At the most basic
level, you could use one of the many
safety clips on the market, my preference for those being the variety that
pin the swivel into the clip. The next
type of lead setup I would advocate
the use of is an inline arrangement,
which has the lead secured to the
outer part of the leadcore by utilizing
the tail rubber and wedging the leadcore at the front of the lead. Upon a
strike, the swivel pulls free of the lead
and the back part of the lead drops
away from the tail rubber, leaving you
in direct contact with the fish. Having
the lead removed from the equation
totally alleviates a major cause of
tethering should the unthinkable happen and you have a line failure. I realize that this is still not ideal, but a
carp is rather adept at getting rid of
hooklinks and although it would still
be trailing leadcore and possibly a
snag leader, without the lead, the
chances of a fish becoming tethered
are significantly reduced. I am aware
that there are very mixed views on
the subject of what is safe and what
isn't, but this is merely my humble
take on the subject, and you can draw

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