FREE-LINE 01.pdf - Page 93



Technical Rig Design Exclusive
(Left) The inline drop lead
arrangement – simplicity itself!
(Below left) It just drops off on a take,
leaving you in contact with the fish
and no lead to worry about.
the Stronghold X-Wide Gape and the
Stinga and Claw hooks respectively.
All of these patterns fulfil the criteria
for what I believe is useful as a snag
hook, and after some bench testing
and real world testing applications, I
am more than happy to have them as
part of my end game arsenal. The rig
itself has been a favourite with me for
snag fishing because of its very simple construction and its hooking efficiency. I am of the opinion that carp
are rather less cautious in their feeding rituals if they are in the sanctuary
of the snags, because they generally
encounter less pressure than in open
water situations. Primarily because of
the increased discipline needed,
many anglers do not find snag fishing
very relaxing so this is a perfect sce-
nario for baiting a trap without all
your efforts being made advantageous to other anglers. To get the
carp less guarded when feeding in a
snag haven, prebaiting for as long as
possible is a good option to start, and
I will generally opt for a mixture of
particles and different size boilies and
chops initially, and then just modify
the ratio of particle to boilie so that
the particle quantity is ever-diminishing and the boilie is increasing. This is
done because I want to get them so
used to the bait that if they encounter
it elsewhere, hopefully they will view
it as the carping equivalent of a
celebrity chef prepared, gastronomic
feast! Once you begin to get an idea
of the bait acceptance, you can gauge
when to start the rod and line tactics
and let the groundwork pay dividends.
The rig’s dynamics will play a
major part in its efficiency, and it
helps to have an idea of what you
want to achieve with the various
components you are going to be
using. When using the contents of the
tackle box to construct your new rig,
don't be afraid to experiment time
after time until you are happy to take
it to the lake. If the rig works, then
great, but a screaming run is not the
time to find out that the hook isn't up
to the job or the hooklink is too weak
so those important three words,
attention to detail have never been so
apt! Obviously the only real test is by
actually fishing with the rig as you
can never hope to emulate the
dynamics involved in an actual take,
so a lot of what is written about rigs
and their reported anti-eject properties, including this piece, is pure conjecture based on what we think it will
react like. But what I hope to achieve
is to at least give you the information
so you can draw your own conclusions about its worth and effectiveness based on your own individual
circumstances. My particular rig can
be constructed very easily as the pictures show, so if you feel that this
could help your angling take few
moments to knock one of these up
and use it with complete confidence.
As you can see, the only nonstandard
element of the rig in the normal sense
is the fact that there is no hair and the
bait is tied directly to a Fox Teflon
pear shaped sliding ring via some
baitfloss. I feel that this offers a major
advantage for hooking fish when
using short (under 6”) hooklinks and
fairly large hooks because only minimal movement is tolerated before the
carp is pricked. The bait moves very
freely thanks to the shape of the rig
ring and the Teflon on Teflon really
accentuates this lack of friction and
allows the bait to be blown back with
ease. This arrangement also makes
the chances of the hook not being
taken in on a pickup a very remote
factor in the equation, so all in all it is
highly efficient for the job in hand. I
FREE LINE 93

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