FREE-LINE 01.pdf - Page 136



All Things Riggy
ger and thumb. Once tied on to a size
11 ring swivel, you can check the
effectiveness of the rig by touching
the back of the curved hooklink. If the
hook spins round then the rig is
primed and ready to go. If however
the rig does not spin, then a bit more
curving needs to be done. Again
attention to detail can dictate the
rig’s effectiveness. When that carp
puts its lips around your hookbait
then you want that rig to be at 100%
of its effectiveness, and spin round
and catch that bottom lip. With a different feel to being pricked on a standard lead setup the carp will not quite
know how to rid itself of the hook if
the rig is feet from the lead, and so a
good old fashioned screamer is usually the result.
How high you fish your pop-up off
the deck will depend on what type of
bottom you are fishing over - hard,
soft or weedy. Also personal confidence is an important factor, and if
you are confident fishing it high, 4ins
or so, then you will fish more effectively. I personally prefer to fish them
lower at 1.5 to 3ins. The shorter they
are the harder they are to tie, and also
to curve effectively, but after a bit of
practice it is possible to tie them nice
and short. As long as the eye of the
hook is big enough to tie a knotless
knot with the 20lb Bristle Filament
then this is the knot I use. If the eye is
too small then a spade end knot will
have to be used, which I believe is
called a Domhoff knot. Once the hook
is tied on, a ring put on the tag end
and passed back through the eye and
blobbed with a lighter, I take a size 11
ring swivel and pass the hooklink, of
which I have left about 6ins to work
with, through the swivel, not the ring.
If I want to tie the chod as short as
possible, then I hold the swivel about
3/4 to 1in from the eye of the hook,
and take four turns around the link. To
make things easier, as this is a bit like
a three-handed job to tie it short, I
hold both the hook and the ring
swivel with a Korda Pulla Tool. This
helps me hold it straight, and is less
fiddly. Using my teeth I can grab the
line, and while holding the Pulla at the
hook end between the third and
fourth fingers, pass the hooklink back
through the loop at the swivel making
a four-turn blood knot. By pulling the
tag end down tight with my teeth
whilst bedding the moistened knot
down with finger and thumb, the
choddy remains short and well knotted. It is then just a case of cutting off
the excess tag end, carefully lighter
blobbing it for extra security, and then
curving the rig for maximum effectiveness.
A buoyant pop-up is essential for
1
3
2
4
136 FREE LINE
rigs such as these to work to their
maximum, so I usually choose to use
hand made cork-balled pop-ups. If
however I chose to use an alternative
hookbait to my normal boilie, Richworth KG1, such as a high visibility
Tutti Frutti in the winter, I gently drill
halfway into the pop-up and insert a
piece of cork plug. This increases the
buoyancy and gives me peace of
mind that 24 hours later my pop-up is
still standing the rig up straight and
has not got the droops, thus fishing
ineffectively. ESP 45lb leadcore makes
an excellent leader to fish the chod rig
on. With the addition of the three new
colours (weed green/choddy silt and
sandy gravel), added to the excellent
original camo, any type of bottom can
be fished over, and the leadcore will
remain fairly well concealed. One tip
that I got from Terry Hearn whilst on
the Car Park Lake is to always prestretch your leadcore leader. This
helps to make it thinner and more
supple, as there is surprisingly quite a
lot of give in leadcore.
Obviously you will need to know
what you are fishing over to have a
1. A leadcore for every bottom.
2. Chod components.
3. Bits for weak link.
4. PVA'd up for a big cast.

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