FREE-LINE 01.pdf - Page 137

All Things Riggy
1. A choddy hook knotless knotted –
add a rig ring.
2. Pass tag through eye and blob end
with lighter.
3. Curve rig and touch back for spin.
4. Long weak bottom for fishing over
5. Beads set for over silt.
clue as to what colour leadcore you
should be using. As I said earlier, the
chod rig is so versatile, and it will
present itself well and settle on any
weed/debris correctly if the top bead
is set far enough up the leader. On a
silty lake such as the Park Lake I will
be tackling this winter, then the
choddy silt colour would be my
choice, but on a typical gravel pit the
original camo can still not be beaten
when casting to an unmarkered spot.
Permanent marker pens can also be
used to doctor the leadcore further,
and this is a tactic I have employed
for several years, a long time before
the choice of different coloured leadcores and hooklink materials came
onto the market.
If you know you are casting onto a
silt spot behind say a clean gravel
patch, the sandy leadcore could be
used, and the last 1.5 to 2ft of leadcore
could be darkened up where it lays
across the silt, or alternatively if fishing directly behind weed, then a
green marker could disguise the end
furthest from the lead. With a slack
line and a lump of putty above the
leadcore, an unobtrusive trap can be
laid. If there is any weed about, and
even in the depths of winter, a collapsed weedbed can be still dense, so
a breakaway lead is very beneficial.
This I achieve by tying the lead on via
some light 4lb mono line. If fishing
over weed then I will fish this with a
length of 2-4ins so as it does not drag
the leadcore and chod rig into the
weed. The length will be determined
by the approximate height of the
weed being fished over. If fishing conventionally hard on the bottom, but


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