FREE LINE 03 - Page 178

All Things Riggy
stick. With a combination of fine mix
and some bigger food items, bait covers the hook, and the compressed
stick explodes and covers the hook
and the end section of the rig. On the
subject of stick mixes, I use a liver
and fish mix formulated by an old
mate of mine and a master of PVA bag
fishing and developing mixes, Mike
Winstone. The high quality ingredients and pungent fishy smell benefit
any type of hookbait, and with the
matching liquid and a few larger
items thrown in for good measure,
and not too light to be puffed away, it
makes an excellent parcel of goodness around the hookbait. Unfortunately Mike has stopped his bait business for other work commitments, so
I've had to stock up for the future. If
you want to do the same, then check
out the Premier Angling website, as
we still have limited supply in stock.
It’s well worth getting on, as I've had
fish to over 42lbs on it. The other way
1. A method of hook concealment – my
PVA stick goodies.
2. The nylon D-rig components.
3. The alternative, beefed-up rig
4. Little hooks for open water winter
I hide the hookbait is to use a balanced hookbait, be it a boilie, a nut or
a piece of fake corn. If you balance it
correctly, you can have the bait
immediately above the hook, thus
shielding even a fairly large hook from
the carp’s vision.
The very nature of a big carp (30plus) is that it has a large head, with
the eyes fairly far apart. This means
that even when in close proximity of
the bait it won’t be able to see that
the hookbait is off the bottom, as its
eye level will be a few inches off the
deck at the very lowest, with its belly
hugging the lakebed. This relative
size of head on a big carp, in relation
to its smaller brethren or smaller
species such as tench, is why I think
pop-ups are a big carp rig only. You
will certainly catch more small carp
and tench on bottom baits, as their
eye level is much tighter to the
lakebed due to the small size of their
heads, so whereas a 3in pop-up
hinged stiff rig is above a tench's eye
level and so is alien to it, a 40lb carp
still looks down on it, and with the
hook hanging under it ready for
action, it is a trap that has hanged
many of England’s finest, just ask Tel
and Nige. As I said earlier if you get
the buoyancy of the hookbait right in
relation to the hook size, it will sit
directly over it.
When making my pop-up boilie
hookbaits, I use my regular paste
wrapped around cork balls so that
they keep the same buoyancy. By
rolling the same sized boilie, but with
a smaller cork ball, it provides me
with floating, but not too buoyant
baits that I can use as balanced baits.
Once tied on the rig they can be
checked in the margins or in a bucket
of water. If the weight of the hook
takes the bait down slowly then
that’s, fine but if its still too buoyant,
then I doctor the hookbait by inserting a length of lead wire into the bait
by drilling a small hole in the underside of the pop-up with a bait drill.
Then I can insert the lead wire into
the bait and trim it down until the
hook takes the bait down to the bottom. Not only do I now have a critically balanced bait that once sucked
will fly into the back of the carp’s
mouth, but also the hook is nicely
blocked from the carp’s view. For nut
hookbaits, a cork insert can be used
to pop the nut up. Using a drill (I think
mine's a 6mm drill that Fox make),
bore into the end of the nut. (tigers or


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